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Topic: Gaming TVs, Soundbars, Headsets and Shelving

Posts 21 to 40 of 137

JaxonH

@Joeynator3000
I’ve found 55” to be the perfect size if you sit 6-8 feet away from the tv. In a bigger room where you sit farther back, though, larger sizes would be preferred. 65” at minimum, maybe 75”. I think 85” would be too big though unless you’re sitting way far back. That’s just me though. I like sitting closer and only needing a 55”.

Sound though. Larger room means being able to set up satellite speakers for a true home theater experience. I’d love to have grabbed the Samsung Q950A, for example. But in my current room, buying rear speaker stands and running cords wouldn’t be ideal. I suppose it could be done, but I much prefer pay a bit more and have an all in one that bounces sound off the walls to emulate speakers above, beside and behind.

I feel like there’s really no difference though, small or large room. If you have a larger room and you get a bigger TV it’s not going to seem any better because you’re sitting farther away. The experience I get with 55” at 6’ away is probably similar to what others get with a 75” tv sitting 15’ away. Or something like that.

PLAYING
NS: Monkey Ball, Cruis'n Blast
3DS: Metroid Samus Returns
Steam: Horizon Zero Dawn
PS5: Ghosts of Tsushima
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: Metroid Dread, SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2

Jesus is Lord.

Wavey84

@JaxonH
It really all depends on the size of your living room, the game/genre itself and of course mounting your TV to the wall to save a good 5+"

Ideally, I would love an 8K 85" OLED(Ahem, with next gen glasses-free stereoscopic 3D and CRT/plasma motion)whenever 8K becomes the norm for gaming. But at the same time, one of the biggest issues i have with lets say anything in first person, is that once you dip past 55" and get to lets say 65", the characters in-game Hand/Weapon will look nearly twice as large as your own. Once you get to 83" they'll look absolutely massive!

It would be better if developers created a scaling option where you plunk in the size of your TV so your characters hands & weapon remain the size of your own while the environments become larger based on the size of your TV. However, Smash Bros Ultimate, Links Awakening, Donkey Kong Country Tropical Freeze, Mario 3D World, just to name a few would all look fantastic and become that much more enjoyable and immersive if they boasted 8K resolution on a 85" OLED.

Problem is, current '4k" 83" OLED's cost over $10,000 CAD and like i pointed out earlier, i wouldn't dip beyond 65" with 4K because i'm not willing to sacrifice anymore pixel density.

Current OLED tech is almost perfect....Once you correct the out of the box black crush, disable the ABL and tinker with the White Balance & Fine Tune color settings to get it look closer to RGB, the only flaw you're really left with is sub-par motion....three problems > excess judder for low frame rate content(Movies, 30fps games), Blur and low motion resolution. If LG & Sony can improve upon the following without the draw backs of Black frame insertion i'd have zero complaints.

Ideally, i'd rather watch movies on something like a 65" ST60(2013) plasma(solely because of the huge upgrade in motion quality), and game on a 65" LG C1. For Retro, a 27"- 32" Sony CRT will be your best bet.

Edited on by Wavey84

Wavey84

Wavey84

@JaxonH
The Audeze Penrose which use planar magnetics are supposedly the holy grail for 2.4ghz gaming cans. I bought a pair a couple of months ago or so, but ended up returning them because they just lacked the refinement, bass and wider soundstage of my beyers. There were a handful of Presets available for download but even then none were quite on the same level as my Beyers. The Penrose's were good, but not great. Not being tethered to a wire was awesome and everything, and they worked near flawlessly with only the occasional hic up(no drop outs fortunately)...

But ultimately i wasn't willing to sacrifice sound quality for wireless connectivity. In order to get a pair of Wireless 2.4ghz studio-grade set of headphones you would have to spend twice as much as I did for the Penrose which were $399 CAD, IF there was an option. As of now, Penrose are the best 2.4ghz option, followed by Arctis Pro unless i'm mistaken. Whenever a 2.4ghz wireless option that can match my beyers becomes available i'm buying day one and never looking back. I'm also never going back to a Receiver and actual speakers either. They take up too much space and i just prefer the convenience, ease of use and aesthetics of a high end soundbar.

I love my Beyers, Zero complaints other than the coiled wire which i'm thinking about getting modded with a detachable straight cable. They sound amazing when hooked up to a DAC, which is hidden under my living room couch hehe.

The BD DT770 '250ohm's' are $239 CAD, and you'll want a high end DAC, like the Schitt HEL 2 to drive them properly which will cost another $249 CAD. Plus addition USB cables to hook into multiple consoles or your TV, and a HUB. ugh, what a mess.lol But if you do what i do none of it's visable, because the wires are hidden in cable covers that glide against the bottom of wall Moldings and blah blah. But ya, sounds like you're already good to go! You will love the C1. Doesn't get any better than that based on what's currently available other than the Sony A80J, strictly in terms of PQ. C1 has lower latency and game optimizer settings with VRR etc unlike Sony.

Edited on by Wavey84

Wavey84

Joeynator3000

@JaxonH shrugs I dunno, it's a weird though I've always had. Just having a big room with a massive TV or something. xD

But yeah right now I can't go any bigger than 55", MAYBE I could go with the second bigger option since I use a wall mount, but i think that would be pushing it with space.

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/joeynator3001

JaxonH

So, I got my LG C1 OLED TV today. Got the stand assembled and everything set up. I LOVE this “Magic Remote”. It’s essentially a Wiipointer but without needing an IR sensor. Typing email and passwords for Netflix and other apps is a breeze. I hated doing that before, especially when you get it wrong and have to try again. Ugh.

But ya, I’m impressed. The color pops so hard, it’s such a great quality image. Even viewing from the side it looks perfect. And I’m not used to TVs that have so many options in the settings. It took a while to go through it all and figure out what’s what. Ran Ethernet to the tv also, which helps streaming apps get better bandwidth. And ordered a Tripp Lite surge protector power strip. Gotta make sure nothing fries.

The soundbar is coming Monday, but I’ll wait til next weekend to set it up. The shelves for glueing together a TV riser and the subwoofer won’t be here til Friday, and I’d like to get that taken care of before setting up the soundbar. It’s going to be an incredibly tight fit on this entertainment stand. The sound bar will be sticking out not only on the sides but it will have to stick out at least an inch and a half on the front, with the TV riser and TV sticking out an inch or two in the back. I’m just hoping the glass doesn’t break from all the weight! Should be around 100 pounds total. Hopefully it can bear that kind of load.

@Wavey84 thanks for the tips. I followed your little short guide for setting contrast and color. Still haven’t figured out if I should use TruMotion and if so, what setting. But so far so good.

PLAYING
NS: Monkey Ball, Cruis'n Blast
3DS: Metroid Samus Returns
Steam: Horizon Zero Dawn
PS5: Ghosts of Tsushima
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: Metroid Dread, SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2

Jesus is Lord.

Joeynator3000

The only thing I hate about the remote (no idea if the newer models do this or not, lol) is it's sitting on my desk, it senses the SLIGHTEST vibration of me gently putting another remote down or something and it's like "OMG you want something! Let me bring up the side menu!!" >.<

Anyways yeah, I got pretty much used to the screen after a month or so and now it's just "another screen". xD But playing something like Smash Ultimate for the first time, it was pretty cool. Retro games look the best on an OLED, though, be sure to check them out. (Super Mario Maker 2 as well if you use the 2D styles)

Edited on by Joeynator3000

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/joeynator3001

JaxonH

@Joeynator3000
Must have been kinda new at that time. It’s perfect on mine. In fact I can even have it on my recliner and as I rock forward and back it doesn’t detect it. I can hold it in my hand and move it and it won’t detect it. Only after waving it around like 3 times will the cursor appear. To get it to appear when you want, just scroll the little wheel button one click and the cursor will appear.

I’m sure once acclimated it won’t seem special anymore. Especially with an AMOLED phone, OLED Nintendo Switch and OLED TV. It’ll just be “the norm”. But I sure do like this new norm.

PLAYING
NS: Monkey Ball, Cruis'n Blast
3DS: Metroid Samus Returns
Steam: Horizon Zero Dawn
PS5: Ghosts of Tsushima
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: Metroid Dread, SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2

Jesus is Lord.

Joeynator3000

I dunno, for my remote it's random, sometimes the menu won't pop up, other times it'll show up when I barely touch my desk.

It's not a huge deal since the menu goes away after a few seconds, but it's still annoying. lol

Oh yeah, let me know if you ever look at the TruMotion thing when watching movies or whatever. (don't use it for 2D animations though, it just looks awkward there, lol) Just wondering because a lot of people hate it, yeah it's not perfect, but I'm fine with it. Just...don't use De-Judder on 10, 5 and 6 is a lot better. Yeah, the screen will look glitchy here and there, but I'm used to it.

Also, I tried it on gaming, it's not worth it. So much for playing MHGU with 60fps. xD

Edited on by Joeynator3000

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/joeynator3001

Wavey84

@JaxonH
no prob! As for TruMotion....Ahem, incoming sea of tech text! lol
Cinematic Movement introduces mild Soap Opera Effect, and i could of sworn had even more judder issues. The other bottom two, Natural and Smooth movement use even more SOE and are not recommended unless you want your movies looking like a day time Soap opera Fabio Special. I would also turn off 'Cinema Screen' in the Clarity section since it inserts frames in movies and seems to produce an SOE-like effect, and a little more judder.

Under TruMotion User selection, you've got De-Judder which decreases Judder, increases motion resolution and reduces blur the farther you go up but also increases the SOE effect. It's basically the SOE setting...And I'm pretty sure De-Blur is used for 60fps content and in return reduces blur the higher you go up, which may be useful for video games running in 30fps to make them look almost 60, but why even bother since it along with the De-judder setting once activated raises input lag in the 90ms+ range.

Then we get to the most important setting, OLED Motion Pro which is LG's Black Frame insertion.
This setting would of came in handy when streaming, but like i pointed out earlier, the Low & Medium(Auto is unreliable and inconsistent)settings suffer from motion duplication. somebody in the AVS forums mentioned that it happens because those three settings use 120hz BFI which doesn't match the content you're watching. Would of loved to of used 'medium' because it can still hit 200 nits in SDR when streaming with peak brightness set to High with zero flicker. But again, the motion is janky from the doubling effect, but there is a decent amount of blur reduction, but at the same time the motion clarity almost looks muddy.

HIGH, on the other hand is capable of almost 1080 lines of motion resolution, a lot less blur and doesn't have any motion duplication problems because it's 60hz BFI. To compensate for the big hit in brightness you can set peak brightness to HIGH(this doesn't work in game mode) and get up to around 170 nits, i think.

But like i mentioned in one of my previous posts, like the Low, Auto and Medium settings you further destroy shadow detail(weather this can also be corrected ala' calibration i dont know), colors will look slightly more desaturated or less accurate from using peak brightness too. Plus, MP HIGH introduces that horrible flickering effect which will drive the majority of people bonkers, which is why i dont recommend it period when streaming.

With gaming, the picture is way too dim with it on(cant use peak brightness to gain more brightness as it's greyed out), input lag shoots up to about 21ms(from 9.5ms with boost mode with MP off),there's more shadow detail crushing and again, the dreaded flicker. Some people might be able to get away with the Low or Auto settings because they dont suffer badly from brightness loss, but they hardly make that much of a difference to even consider using. Medium is when there's a clear difference in motion blur reduction, but by that point in game mode, the picture still looks too dim.

Here are my ISF Expert (Dark space, night) SDR settings for Streaming >

OLED Light: 75
Contrast: 86
Brightness: 50
Peak Brightness: Off
Auto Dynamic Contrast: Off
Gamma: 2.4
Color Depth: 60
Color Gamut: Auto Detect
Color Temp: Warm 50
Tint: 0
Adjust Sharpness: 12
TrueMotion: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
MPEG Noise Reduction: Off
Smooth Gradiation: Off

White Balance >
Method: 2 Points
Point: 'High'
Green: -15

Edited on by Wavey84

Wavey84

Joeynator3000

Eh, I'm fine with TruMotion...I like it, but having DeJudder on 10 is way too much, so I keep it in the middle. I don't know why everyone hates it, I find it weird that when it comes to video games, we need high frames otherwise the game is unplayable, not worth it...trash. But movies, nope, gotta keep them frames low. You people are weird. lol

Anyways yeah, personal preference, but I like it. I do think DeBlur in general worsens the visual artifacts when used with DeJudder, though. So I never bothered with that.

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/joeynator3001

Wavey84

@Joeynator3000
Because a lot of people don't want their movies looking like Video. It's like you're watching actors act on a set which cheapens and destroys that surreal cinematic look we've grown accustomed to for decades. SOE might be great for wild life documentaries, but it will ruin nearly every other movie you throw at it. But to each their own. I think using De-Judder at 2 or is it 3, might just eliminate Judder, while reducing a bit of blur and movies wont look entirely like video. The effect is there, but it's not 100% SOE.

I've heard The Hobbit in 48fps in theatres years ago was like watching the most expensive soap opera known to man. lol Kind of irked I passed on it, and it was in 3D.

Edited on by Wavey84

Wavey84

JaxonH

I do find the soap opera effect to look a bit weird, but I’ve found the TruMotion “Natural” setting to look really good. That’s what I’ve been using for Outer Banks on Netflix.

I’m curious what OLED pixel brightness is best? I’m tempted to go with 100 but, I thought I read something about keeping it at 80 for some reason (avoid burn in? Longevity? Idk)

PLAYING
NS: Monkey Ball, Cruis'n Blast
3DS: Metroid Samus Returns
Steam: Horizon Zero Dawn
PS5: Ghosts of Tsushima
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: Metroid Dread, SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2

Jesus is Lord.

Wavey84

lol. I upgrade my TV, like every 2 years so i personally couldn't care less about longevity, but if you are concerned you probably have like almost 10 years with frequent use. I keep my OLED light to 90-100 & Contrast at 95 when gaming in SDR which is at least 200 nits of brightness but i have it lower when streaming. I'm still messing with the settings, but i think 75-90 is great for dark room viewing paired with 85 contrast for movies and stuff. Colors start to clip after contrast: 87 or 88 and then whites will clip after 97. Dipping past OLED light 90 in SDR isn't recommended but do what you like it's your TV.

And It's weird, i find that the Contrast and brightness are less with Switch than what i'm getting with my PS4 Pro.

Edited on by Wavey84

Wavey84

JaxonH

Got the soundbar today and got it hooked up!

Took a while to get eARC to work correctly. Finally had to unhook the TV and the sound bar and run the power out. Turned it back on and it started working.

So far, I really like it. Will have to watch some movies once the sub is hooked up to see how it fares.

PLAYING
NS: Monkey Ball, Cruis'n Blast
3DS: Metroid Samus Returns
Steam: Horizon Zero Dawn
PS5: Ghosts of Tsushima
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: Metroid Dread, SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2

Jesus is Lord.

Joeynator3000

Any luck with Switch and surround sound yet? o.o

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/joeynator3001

JaxonH

@Joeynator3000
When I set it to surround and it does the 6 sound test, I can only hear the first two. Clearly not working right. When I set it to automatic it plays all 6 sounds but you can tell it's just duplicating stereo for the missing speakers.

That's with Switch plugged into TV using eARC to the soundbar.

However, when plugging into the soundbar directly, surround sound works perfectly. It's the only system I have to plug in directly. The Linear PCM 5.1 just doesn't pass through for some reason.

Anyways, that's the solution. Plug directly into soundbar. If your soundbar doesn't have any HDMI inputs, I'd just get a new soundbar that does. Or, you can buy special devices to pull the audio out of the HDMI signal from Switch, but I've never had the desire to pursue such methods.

PLAYING
NS: Monkey Ball, Cruis'n Blast
3DS: Metroid Samus Returns
Steam: Horizon Zero Dawn
PS5: Ghosts of Tsushima
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: Metroid Dread, SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2

Jesus is Lord.

Joeynator3000

@JaxonH Yeah I figured, what about the audio cut out thing? My Vizio bar seems to do this when I do get surround sound working on Switch. It's weird and very annoying, like the bar itself temporarily deactivates whenever there's a second of silence on the Switch. (main menu being the perfect place to test this, lol)

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/joeynator3001

JaxonH

@Joeynator3000
Hmm. That actually did happen to me before I got it plugged into the soundbar directly.

But now that it's plugged in directly and surround test works properly, there are no cut outs

PLAYING
NS: Monkey Ball, Cruis'n Blast
3DS: Metroid Samus Returns
Steam: Horizon Zero Dawn
PS5: Ghosts of Tsushima
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: Metroid Dread, SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2

Jesus is Lord.

Joeynator3000

@JaxonH ....I wonder if I could get my sound bar working like that, because it always happens whenever the Switch is directly plugged in. >.<

I remember looking into this years ago and never got any help or made any progress on fixing this.

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/joeynator3001

JaxonH

@Joeynator3000
Switch is very temperamental, like Wii U before it. They don’t pay for Dolby codecs so their audio is all PCM. Most 1st party games include 5.1 surround, but some don’t. Like Xenoblade Chronicles 2. And many that do technically support it don’t really use it for much. I’d accept Switch as a 2 channel stereo console.

But, if you do want to get it working, you could always buy an HDMI extractor. Or get a new soundbar. I’m playing Zelda Skyward Sword HD and it sounds pretty good. Obviously 5.1 isn’t the best audio experience, but it’s certainly a step up from stereo.

PLAYING
NS: Monkey Ball, Cruis'n Blast
3DS: Metroid Samus Returns
Steam: Horizon Zero Dawn
PS5: Ghosts of Tsushima
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: Metroid Dread, SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2

Jesus is Lord.

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