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Topic: How to easily remove an NES cartridge from the frontloader

Posts 1 to 20 of 23

The_Ink_Pit_Ox

How do you remove an NES cartridge from the frontloader without struggling and risking skin damage?

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theblackdragon

pop it up, and then wiggle it a little bit as you pull if it feels stuck. i don't ever remember 'struggling' to get a game out of my NES, though...
seriously, how do you get 'skin damage' removing an NES game?

Edited on by theblackdragon

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KingMike

What? I've never heard of that. Something must be going on with your console if that's happening.
Though I did have to struggle a bit to get some games out of my AV Famicom (particularly Bandai carts), but I found I just hold it with one hand and yank the sucker out with the other.

KingMike

Tasuki

Wow I have never had that happen before. I know some unlicensed games may be harder to pull out than others but with a normal NES cartridge you shouldnt have any problems.

Basically all you have to do is like what TBD said if the normal NES games are getting stuck like that you might want to check on whats causing that problem.

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The_Ink_Pit_Ox

The skin damage thing was an exaggeration about holding onto the ripply part. Thanks, though.

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The_Ink_Pit_Ox

Ok, it looks like something's defective. I'm returning the thing. Turns out my toploader only needed a new R/F cord (I'm using the one that came with the NES I just got).

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ogo79

yeah dont rip skin off yer body

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As @ogo79 said, the SNS-RZ-USA is a prime giveaway that it's not a legit retail cart.
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The_Ink_Pit_Ox

UPDATE:

Ok, I brought the thing back, and it turns out the mechanism is new and needs to be broken in.

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Ryno

Sounds like they replaced the 72 pin connector. I just did that the other night and the first couple games are super tight.

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The_Ink_Pit_Ox

Yep. That's what they did.

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Ryno

Did you tell them they should warn people in the future about potential skin damage?

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Mabbit

Pulling

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The_Ink_Pit_Ox

@Ryno: LOL

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VmprHntrD

Dude I know what you're suffering from. You're using a 'new' aftermarket cheaply made piece of crap 72pin people make as replacements. Almost every last one of them are terrible. Often they're so freaking tight you have to fight to get the games out and they will damage at times the carts by scraping the outer thin gold filament layer off the pins (which causes them now to easily tarnish black and cause them not to work without aggressive cleaning.) Also those awful pins, 'breaking in' means just breaking them as the metal is crappy brittle and weak so it will wear out from regular use and you'll be adding in a new one in a year or a few years depending how much you play the system.

Honestly I'd get rid of that piece of crap and find an old pin and use that. They're safer to and are easier to refurb. If the pins are pretty spread out from many uses, using something so simple as the tip of a safety pin to get under the metal and just bend it back towards center will solve the problem (other than using the nintendo cleaning kit piece of board soaked in isopropyl alcohol to rub off any black tarnishing junk off that.

"Modern pins" are nearly all crap, and what's worse aside from what I already wrote about cart damage and cheap construction is that some are so damn stiff you can't even lock the games down into the system as intended, you'll have to leave them in the up position so the system will read the game as down will never work.

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The_Ink_Pit_Ox

Well, then, I suppose I was ripped off and will have to return the thing.

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Ryno

tanookisuit wrote:

Dude I know what you're suffering from. You're using a 'new' aftermarket cheaply made piece of crap 72pin people make as replacements. Almost every last one of them are terrible. Often they're so freaking tight you have to fight to get the games out and they will damage at times the carts by scraping the outer thin gold filament layer off the pins (which causes them now to easily tarnish black and cause them not to work without aggressive cleaning.) Also those awful pins, 'breaking in' means just breaking them as the metal is crappy brittle and weak so it will wear out from regular use and you'll be adding in a new one in a year or a few years depending how much you play the system.

Honestly I'd get rid of that piece of crap and find an old pin and use that. They're safer to and are easier to refurb. If the pins are pretty spread out from many uses, using something so simple as the tip of a safety pin to get under the metal and just bend it back towards center will solve the problem (other than using the nintendo cleaning kit piece of board soaked in isopropyl alcohol to rub off any black tarnishing junk off that.

"Modern pins" are nearly all crap, and what's worse aside from what I already wrote about cart damage and cheap construction is that some are so damn stiff you can't even lock the games down into the system as intended, you'll have to leave them in the up position so the system will read the game as down will never work.

After reading your post I wish I would have fixed the old NES pin instead of replacing it and throwing it away

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The_Ink_Pit_Ox

Well, my only problem is removing the games after popping them up.

Again, have I been ripped off?

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Ryno

No, you haven't been ripped off, well, depends how much you payed for a used NES? But my thoughts are no price is to high for the best video game system off all time (FYI I feel obligated to mention that SNES is a very close second). By now the pin should have loosend up so it is not as strenuous.

Edited on by Ryno

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VmprHntrD

Depending what you paid for on your NES control deck is the only way to answer that. For starters though price aside, if you still have the original pins lying around, fix em as I said and try that as it will be more stable.

Also another suggestion, snip the 10NES chip pin #4. Check for pics or youtube on this. If you remove or snip one pin off that chip the NES will never flicker on/off again — ever, and unless the game is dirty it will run, and as a bonus, PAL games will work (some at least, some just can't handle the tv at all) but stuff like Parodius (I own it) works. That snipped pin puts it on the level of stability and non-regional level of a top loader.

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The_Ink_Pit_Ox

I used a $50 gift card plus a few bucks in cash. The games are working perfectly, it's just that it's hard to get them out. I'm still using my worn out Zelda cartridge to "break it in".

Edited on by The_Ink_Pit_Ox

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