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Topic: PC Gaming

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JaxonH

Monitors are relatively cheap. I’d go for the PC first, then get the monitor. Or get both at the same time. Pre-builts are my recommendation for anyone who doesn’t want to build. Provided it’s not a mass market model from a budget brand. I went through C.U.K. and was very happy with their craftsmanship. Solid cable management, safe shipping, everything worked without issue.

I prefer playing PC on my LG C1 OLED 4KTV, just like a console. It has VRR support for G-sync and Freesync. Also provides 4K, which many monitors don’t.

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Pizzamorg

I think my monitor cost me just under 500 quid, which is significantly cheaper than even a budget 4K TV but more expensive than say a Nintendo Switch, which I know can be a hard sell for many. For me, the benefits of the monitor far outweigh the costs. I wouldn't say it is vital though, I gamed on my TV for a years (the 60 fps, barebones, TV) and while it ran like ***** compared to my monitor, obviously I didn't know this until I had my monitor, so the TV did the job just fine (assuming you already have a TV).

There is also the question of 4K but this is a more complicated than it might appear. Higher resolution would seem like it is always better, but the performance cost between 1440p and 4k can be significant, especially on games released in the last couple of years. So unless you have a modern, top of the range PC, you might not be playing a lot of games in 4K if you want the best performance you can out of the game, so you might be able to save yourself money by getting a 1440p monitor instead. Especially as monitors are generally much smaller than TVs, like it doesn't make as much of a difference because you are sat like directly in front of it, but you're still not going to see as much of a difference as you might expect between 1440p and 4K if your monitor is around 30 inches, even sat close to it. But it will be priced like it is the difference between the sun and moon.

With my set up, I use my 1440p, Gsync 144 hz monitor for shooters and competitive games, where every drop of performance matters. It is about half the size of my TV, but I am sat directly in front of it, so it doesn't make any different. However, I tend to throw turn based, tactics or story based single player games over to my TV. There I can play in 4K and if the game sits under 60fps, it doesn't really affect anything.

In terms of prebuilts, they can be a real mixed bag from my experience. I used a company called Overclockers a few years ago, they gave me a high specced machine (for the time) but it never ran particularly well, not the level of performance the specs should give me. I ended up taking that thing apart and putting it back together again, replacing a bunch of parts, as they had clearly cut a lot of corners to get the costs down on the more expensive parts. You get what you pay for.

I eventually replaced that prebuilt PC with a new one from a different company, this has been a significantly better experience than the first time. There were still some oddities with some of the build choices, but I could fix those myself. Maybe it would be better if I just entirely built it myself... but I can't be arsed.

I would highly recommend though you avoid going prebuilt from an actual company, like HP, or Dell or whoever is still going around. Those sorts of prebuilts are usually overpriced and just awful.

My @ handle everywhere is Pizzamorg.
My Friend Code is: SW-6997-6872-4381
Switch games currently playing: I am Setsuna, Splatoon 2, Cruis'n Blast.
Non-Switch games I am currently playing: Far Cry 6, Life is Strange: True Colors.

Matt_Barber

I'm not overly fond of prebuilts. Their design often seems driven by what the manufacturers have an overstock of rather than matching components of appropriate specifications together, and they'll quite often underperform badly compared to systems you could build yourself at similar prices because of that.

Also, be especially wary of the major manufacturers like Dell, HP and Lenovo, as they'll frequently use proprietary components that make upgrades much harder because you're locked into their ecosystems.

That said, if you've neither the time nor inclination to build your own PC they're an option. Just do your homework first to avoid any truly unpleasant surprises. Most manufacturers will give you a parts list, and that'll give you a good idea as to the upgrade potential and any likely bottlenecks.

The main problem with buying any PC at the moment though is the GPU shortage. There's a particularly large premium on anything that's capable of 4K or higher refresh rates. In many ways you'd be better off buying something with integrated graphics or an entry level card and looking to upgrade next year, when prices might have returned to normality. Then again, people were saying that last year and we're not exactly back there yet.

Matt_Barber

Pizzamorg

Yeah, if you want to build it yourself - research is your best friend. That might sound like an obvious point, but the actual craft of PC building is basically lego so it isn't hard. What makes it difficult is that not every kind of PC part will talk to another, so you have to know what parts will play nice, how to balance your parts, how to properly arrange/install your parts etc You can't just toss a bunch of random ***** into a box. That is why I tend to just buy a prebuilt and use that as a foundation, because at least I know the core works. Then slowly build upon it over time.

My @ handle everywhere is Pizzamorg.
My Friend Code is: SW-6997-6872-4381
Switch games currently playing: I am Setsuna, Splatoon 2, Cruis'n Blast.
Non-Switch games I am currently playing: Far Cry 6, Life is Strange: True Colors.

BruceCM

If you're in the UK & you don't want to just buy a PC already made from wherever, there's PC Specialist ..... That way you get the advantages you would get with building it yourself except they do it, so you still get the usual kind of guarantee! Which specifically lets you upgrade if you like, with only the obvious clause to cover if that caused problems they wouldn't cover those

SW-4357-9287-0699
Steam: Bruce_CM

RR529

Decided to buy the Destroy All Humans! remake while it's on sale.

It's a game I've been interested in ever since it's original release though I never got around to getting it until now, and I figured for $10 it was worth getting for a rainy day/lull in releases.

Meanwhile, in Tales of Arise I've just arrived at the obligatory section where you lose access to your main healer for a bit, so that should be fun, lol.

Edited on by RR529

Currently Playing:
Switch - Blade Strangers
PS4 - Kingdom Hearts III, Tetris Effect (VR)

Link-Hero

@RR529
If you like action-adventure with some political and dark humor of 50's America, you're going to enjoy Destroy all Humans.

Edited on by Link-Hero

Link-Hero

Switch Friend Code: SW-3097-0477-1999 | Nintendo Network ID: LinkHero25

Pizzamorg

Not sure what the patch did but I went from no hard crashes in DEATHLOOP in almost 15 hours, to getting two hard crashes practically back to back.

My @ handle everywhere is Pizzamorg.
My Friend Code is: SW-6997-6872-4381
Switch games currently playing: I am Setsuna, Splatoon 2, Cruis'n Blast.
Non-Switch games I am currently playing: Far Cry 6, Life is Strange: True Colors.

JaxonH

@BruceCM
Ya, that’s how C.U.K. is. You custom order your PC. They have some stock choices to choose from as a baseline, then you choose which options you’d like upgraded for higher cost. I went for the best GPU out at the time (2080 ti), best motherboard, best PSU, largest SSD they offered, but went with 32GB RAM (64 just didn’t seem worth it, plus they sent me higher MHz ram than I paid for which was awesome), went for the best CPU at the time (i9 9900k), paid for the 240mm water pump CPU cooler, no auxiliary mechanical HDD, no Windows activation.

Everything is hand assembled by a single master builder.

When it comes to mass market prebuilts such as Dell, Alienware, HP, etc. Those are cheap components, cheaply made, poor cable management, they run hot, and I don’t trust them. Not to say there aren’t deals to be had, but personally I won’t touch them. Unless you really need a deal and are willing to compromise on the parts included in the build, it’s not worth it. Better to custom “build” your own picking and choosing the components you want, and skipping on the ones you don’t want. That money that would’ve gone towards features and components you don’t care about could be better put towards upgrades in other areas that you do care about (such as getting a 2TB NVMe for your OS).

PLAYING
NS: METROID DREAD (10/10 muah!)
3DS:
Steam:
PS5:
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2, Metroid Prime 4

Jesus is Lord.

PSVR_lover

JaxonH wrote:

@BruceCM
Ya, that’s how C.U.K. is. You custom order your PC. They have some stock choices to choose from as a baseline, then you choose which options you’d like upgraded for higher cost. I went for the best GPU out at the time (2080 ti), best motherboard, best PSU, largest SSD they offered, but went with 32GB RAM (64 just didn’t seem worth it, plus they sent me higher MHz ram than I paid for which was awesome), went for the best CPU at the time (i9 9900k), paid for the 240mm water pump CPU cooler, no auxiliary mechanical HDD, no Windows activation.

Everything is hand assembled by a single master builder.

When it comes to mass market prebuilts such as Dell, Alienware, HP, etc. Those are cheap components, cheaply made, poor cable management, they run hot, and I don’t trust them. Not to say there aren’t deals to be had, but personally I won’t touch them. Unless you really need a deal and are willing to compromise on the parts included in the build, it’s not worth it. Better to custom “build” your own picking and choosing the components you want, and skipping on the ones you don’t want. That money that would’ve gone towards features and components you don’t care about could be better put towards upgrades in other areas that you do care about (such as getting a 2TB NVMe for your OS).

Nothing more powerful than a desktop PC custom built by yourself or a custom PC builder. They rock and I’ve had a few of them. However, a gaming PC laptop can give you a great gaming experience at Starbucks - and there is lots to be said for that too.

The PSVR is the best VR system on the market today.

BruceCM

Yeah, even though I was looking while there were good deals on pre-builts from various companies, @JaxonH ..... The price in PC Specialist was still at least as good! They have great forums, too, so I could get a bit of advice from people who clearly knew lots about PCs

SW-4357-9287-0699
Steam: Bruce_CM

Pizzamorg

I personally would never use a water cooler again. I ran one in my old PC build (a Corsair H80i v2) and one pump would break every couple of months and need replacing. I now just use air cooling only, my PC runs significantly hotter than my old one - especially if I leave the side on - but at least it isn't a gamble as to whether my pump will die today. Plus, while it does run hotter, I wouldn't say it runs dangerously hot - it is still within regular ranges, the only time otherwise is when it is like 30 plus degrees outside and it heats up my flat to the point where both me and the PC are dying. I think as PC gamers we get conditioned to thinking that if our PC hits like 30 degrees at a full load it is on fire, when really as long as your PC isn't idling at like 70 degrees, you are fine.

My @ handle everywhere is Pizzamorg.
My Friend Code is: SW-6997-6872-4381
Switch games currently playing: I am Setsuna, Splatoon 2, Cruis'n Blast.
Non-Switch games I am currently playing: Far Cry 6, Life is Strange: True Colors.

6ch6ris6

water cooling only makes sense when you want to radically overclock some components. minor overclocking can be achieved with just ramping up the fans in "traditional" builds.
i slightly overclock my gpu (gtx 1060) for one game (hunt showdown). super easy and save with msi afterburner. dont even notice the faster spinning fans and the gpu stays under 70°C while being under 100% load.

a custom ordered pc is a really good choice for people who cant or are afraid of build(ing) an entire pc (like me). my current one wasnt perfect when i recieved it (ssd was a bit loose), but after 1-2 hours of working on it, it was okay. i installed an additional fan at the back for like 10€ and thats it.

Ryzen 5 2600
2x8GB DDR4 RAM 3000mhz
GTX 1060 6GB

Pizzamorg

Yeah that is all I have done, I just set a custom curve for both my GPU, system and CPU fans so as soon as we start getting around the 70% mark we kick into full power to get those temps back under control. It means I tend to idle/part load hotter, but at full load the PC is fine. Probably not ideal for those who value a quiet PC, but again, having to replace parts of my cooler every couple of months was way worse to me than a bit of noise I can't hear as I game with headphones on.

My @ handle everywhere is Pizzamorg.
My Friend Code is: SW-6997-6872-4381
Switch games currently playing: I am Setsuna, Splatoon 2, Cruis'n Blast.
Non-Switch games I am currently playing: Far Cry 6, Life is Strange: True Colors.

Matt_Barber

You're lucky if it's just the pump that goes in a water cooler. You should see what happens when one leaks.

Matt_Barber

JaxonH

Yikes. That’s why I have reservations about custom loops and GPU water coolers. I still think it would be cool to have, but I don’t think it’s a good idea without building the loop myself to have more intimate knowledge if something went wrong.

Of course, closed loop CPU water cooled pumps I’m 100% ok with. I’ve been using mine for well over a year now and no issues to date. They’re completely sealed and you never have to deal with cleaning it out or anything. I’ve had good luck so far with the CPU closed loop pumps. If I had the luck some here have had though I’d probably stick with a CPU fan instead.

Here’s the one I ordered. It’s a micro sized case which is smaller than the full sized cases, yet still large enough for full size components, unlike the mini cases which, although super compact, are a pain getting anything else to fit such as extra SSDs. You can grab one with 2TB NVMe, 32gb RAM, Intel i9 10900k CPU with 120mm closed loop CPU cooler, an Nvidia RTX 3060 GPU for just a smidge over $2,000.

That’s a battleship of a PC for $2k. Especially with GPU prices where they are right now, and the performance a 3060 offers, you’d be running 4k 60 across the board with a PC that offers raytracing, DLSS, HDMI 2.1 with 120fps at 4k, G-sync variable refresh rate support and a nice 2TB NVMe for your OS to get you started.

Of course, for $2700 you could add a Windows 10 Home activation and upgrade to a 3070 ti (at MSRP I would never go with the ti- better bang for buck just buying a 3070 or 3080, but at the prices offered the extra hundred dollars over the 3070 is worth it IMO).

And if you want to just go ham with the best GPU money can buy, skip the 3080 and go straight for the business class 3090 (it’s $2900 but screw it, if you wanna be set for the next 10 years at 4k 60 High settings- this bad boy has you covered), upgrade to 64gb RAM along with the Windows 10 Home activation, you can do so for $4400. Less than 5 stacks and you’ve got the best gaming PC money can buy, bar none. There may be more expensive, fancier PCs out there, but in terms of raw performance, this is the end of the line. From here it’s all just trying to get better cooling, cooler appearance, etc. I guess you could do a multiple-GPU setup but, honestly who’s doing all that for video games.

https://cukusa.com/cuk-stratos-micro-b460-custom-gaming-deskt...

Edited on by JaxonH

PLAYING
NS: METROID DREAD (10/10 muah!)
3DS:
Steam:
PS5:
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NS: SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2, Metroid Prime 4

Jesus is Lord.

Pizzamorg

So I've hit this forced stealth section in DEATHLOOP and I just give up. DEATHLOOP is one of the most overrated games of modern times, feel like I utterly wasted my money. Found guides to disable the punishment for not using stealth and for some reason it does not work. I give up, the game has beaten me. I have no interest in playing a sandbox game where I can't play how I want to play.

My @ handle everywhere is Pizzamorg.
My Friend Code is: SW-6997-6872-4381
Switch games currently playing: I am Setsuna, Splatoon 2, Cruis'n Blast.
Non-Switch games I am currently playing: Far Cry 6, Life is Strange: True Colors.

skywake

JaxonH wrote:

Of course, closed loop CPU water cooled pumps I’m 100% ok with. I’ve been using mine for well over a year now and no issues to date. They’re completely sealed and you never have to deal with cleaning it out or anything. I’ve had good luck so far with the CPU closed loop pumps. If I had the luck some here have had though I’d probably stick with a CPU fan instead

The irony of this being that your CPU isn't the component you should be wanting to watercool. Water cooling isn't magic, all cooling is just airflow and surface area. The only reason watercooling is "better" is because you can create larger surface areas and higher airflow

But a Noctua D15 or even a Noctua U12 sized air cooler? You get a lot of surface area and airflow, comparable to what you'd get in an AIO watercooler, and there's less points of failure. Only problem is that something like that is while it's super easy to drop on a CPU, assuming you don't have a very small case, GPUs are usually in a pretty awkward spot. And the GPU is usually the thing drawing the most power in games.

I wouldn't bother with watercooling except if I was doing a custom loop including a high end GPU OR if it was doing a super small form factor PC where the options where a tower cooler wasn't an option. And even in the case of the latter I'd probably just get a slim cooler or some kind

................ on another note. Been replaying Bayonetta on my TV via Steam in home streaming after the Bayonetta 3 trailer. My new laptop can run it but if I do in-home streaming I can get 1440p, max settings etc, etc. What I realised but is that this setup is the first time I've actually played games with surround sound. I'm usually either on my PC with headphones or on my TV with a Nintendo console that pushes out PCM only 5.1 that my SONOS setup doesn't like. Surround for games definitely adds something. Welcome to the year 2000 me

Edited on by skywake

Some Aussie musics: Pond, TFS, Genesis Owusu
"Don't stir the pot" is a nice way of saying "they're too dumb to reason with"

JaxonH

@skywake
GPU is more important, but I’m not ballsy enough to run a custom loop on my GPU. Still, the closed loop CPU coolers have been great in my experience. Quieter and rather effective. Works for me.

Idk if you’ve visited this thread

https://www.nintendolife.com/forums/nintendo-switch/gaming_tv...

But it’s all about surround sound, headphones, etc. I recently bought a Sennheiser Dolby Atmos Ambeo soundbar with SVS subwoofer, and it’s been revelatory. I also bought Sennheiser 800S headphones which are incredible for gaming. I tend to stick to headphones for PC to drown out fan noise, plus Dolby Atmos for headphones works great in games, and for PS5 since their 3D audio only works for 2 channel like headphones. But Switch is great with both headphones or surround. I didn’t realize this but most switch games actually run 5.1 surround. Playing Zelda Skyward Sword HD was so different with the Ambeo. It brings games to life.

I take it you own Sonos Arc? I’ve never used one but, I do know for my Switch surround to work, I had to run HDMI directly into the soundbar, then pass video through to the tv using the eARC port on the soundbar. Whereas my PS5 and PC can run into my TV and pass audio through to the soundbar out of its eARC port. And if you don’t have eARC, there are HDMI audio extractors which can allow you to split the audio out to your soundbar with an HDMI and run a separate HDMI to your TV for video. Switch is very temperamental with its surround sound implementation. But with a little work, it can be done.

What kind of headphones are you using? You have a DAC/AMP also?

Edited on by JaxonH

PLAYING
NS: METROID DREAD (10/10 muah!)
3DS:
Steam:
PS5:
MOST EXCITED FOR
NS: SMTV, Bayonetta 3, Splatoon 3, Triangle Strategy, MH Rise Sunbreak, Zelda BotW 2, Metroid Prime 4

Jesus is Lord.

skywake

@JaxonH
I have a Beam and a 2019 model TV without eARC so my options are DD (and soon DTS) or stereo. There sadly aren't any options I know of that convert PCM to DD and if there were you'd get latency added anyways.

For headphones I just have some entry level Sennheisers. Nothing fancy but does the job. And you do get a reasonable effect in titles that support Atmos for headphones

Some Aussie musics: Pond, TFS, Genesis Owusu
"Don't stir the pot" is a nice way of saying "they're too dumb to reason with"

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