Forums

Topic: Gaming TVs, Soundbars, Headsets and Shelving

Posts 141 to 160 of 174

JaxonH

I saw the Sennheiser Ambeo on sale again for $500 off, and, you might be able to stack the WELCOME10 new user coupon for another 10% off, taking it down to $1799 from MSRP of $2499.

It's also on BestBuy for $1999, where you can use BestBuy CC for 5% back in rewards.

https://en-us.sennheiser.com/ambeo-soundbar

PLAYING
NS: Splatoon 3, Xenoblade 3, MH Rise Sunbreak, Radiant Silvergun and dozens of other STGs
PC/SD:
XSX:
PS5:

Jesus is Lord.

JaxonH

Fuzzy earcups. Never was a fan of closed back, but those look like cans I'd like to try.

I have voice chat all worked out via the Arctis 9 wireless which connects wirelessly to Switch with 2.4 GHz wireless dongle and wirelessly to phone via Bluetooth and mixes the audio. But because the dongle is USB-A with a cable attached it's not ideal for handheld.

So.

I just grabbed a Homespot Pro aptx LL Bluetooth adapter for Switch and an aptx LL Bluetooth receiver to use with my Hifiman Aryas (Sennheisers stay corded for TV play- this is for handheld only). This will allow me to pair my wired headphones over Bluetooth, while also connecting my phone over Bluetooth, and mixing the audio. The Homespot Pro adapter has a built in mic too. Might not be the best but as long as it works.

This will enable voice chat via Discord with the audio mixed with the game while in handheld mode. Was gonna buy a special pair of aptx LL bluetooth headphones to use with the Homespot adapter for handheld voice chat, but then thought... why? I have too many headphones already. Surely there's a way to make a wired set wireless? Turns out, there was.

Avantree aptx LL Bluetooth Receiver
Untitled

Homespot Pro aptx LL Dual Bluetooth Adapter
Untitled

Edited on by JaxonH

PLAYING
NS: Splatoon 3, Xenoblade 3, MH Rise Sunbreak, Radiant Silvergun and dozens of other STGs
PC/SD:
XSX:
PS5:

Jesus is Lord.

JaxonH

@NeonPizza
Well, I wouldn't recommend going wireless for audio in general, but for voice chat specifically? That's something where I have to go wireless. I'm not worried about pristine audio when I'm voice chatting, I just want to hear what's going on in the game and hear the person I'm talking to, and do it without all these wires and adapters running from my headphones to my Switch to my phone, etc.

I saw the QD-OLED, but it was Samsung, not Sony. They were saying Samsung might just call it "QD" because they've been so aggressive against OLED in the past, it might not be good marketing for them to keep OLED in the name.

But ya, I'm hoping my TV will last until the time it's out and cost has come down.

PLAYING
NS: Splatoon 3, Xenoblade 3, MH Rise Sunbreak, Radiant Silvergun and dozens of other STGs
PC/SD:
XSX:
PS5:

Jesus is Lord.

TommyTendo

I recently bought the Samsung Neo QLED 65" gaming TV, and I'm really happy with it. Colors and contrast are really crisp compared to my old "cheap" 55" 2015 Samsung TV.
Also, in summer I got a pretty nice Samsung sound bar with surround and I do believe also Dolby Atmos, as well as a woofer or whatever it's called that's on the ground and makes the bass I think. Pretty good sound. But I had to mount my TV on the wall, since the soundbar is ridiculously big lol

Buizel

So the new Switch has pretty much sold me on OLED and I'm thinking of picking up a 48" TV in the coming months.

Seems the two main options here are from LG and Sony. The latter generally costs ~£200 (~$273) more than the former. Specs seem largely the same (same size, pixel count, 120hz).

Any recommendations here? I know there's been a bit of controversy around LG littering their OS with ads...but is there any reason to go for Sony over LG? Might it overall be a better quality display?

At least 2'8".

NeonPizza

Wonderful. So, I ordered this USB HUB, came in the mail today and i think it's faulty.
Untitled
Have it hooked up accordingly with my Soundblasterx G6(+DT770 Headphones) and i'm getting like, 4 Second Audio drop outs nearly every 1 minute or so when playing Mega Man 11 on Switch. I have the worst luck in the world if it is in fact defective. Ugh, when i have my DAC connected straight to my Switch or PS4's USB there's no issues.

Going to test the HUB with my PS4 and see if the same thing happens. Either i return it and get a new one, or find something higher end, or give up on wired cans all together and go back to the Audeze Penrose(Had zero drop outs with the 1-2 weeks i had with them) and then wait until Audeze's next higher end 2.4ghz wireless headset or headphone comes out and go for that. Penrose has the right idea, and the planer magnetics work wonders.

Ideally, an Audiophile-grade pair of Sennheiser Open-back wired cans would be my first choice. But i have to settle for closed. The amount of sound leak that came from my previous pair of wired sennheisers was the equivalent of almost having speakers glued to my head. Not ideal for an apartment, when you like it as loud as i do. thankfully the Beyer Dynamic DT700 Pro X's don't sound closed in at all.

Edit: PS4 has zero audio drop outs for all USB ports, the culprit was my Switch Dock's bottom USB port. it's not working properly, the one above works perfectly fine with the HUB. Still annoyed that the Switch's USB port inside the dock doesn't work period, and that's because it's USB 3.0 which i had no idea about. I was hoping to root the USB cable behind my switch so you wouldn't be able to see any wires. Now i have this cable sticking out on the side of the switch. tough times, especially when you're OCD about wires like I am.

Edited on by NeonPizza

"ExcuuuUUUUSE ME, Princess!"
Switch Friend Code: SW-1323-8872-2420
I demand Crystal Pepsi & Noid Domino's Pizza!

Budda

I have a question about the picture settings of a LG C1 or similar models, if I damage the TV or something with this.
I've experimented with the PC mode a little for the Switch to get a better picture without getting more input lag compared to Game Mode. Surprisingly PC Mode on Vivid looks absolutely amazing! Though it's a tiny little bit blurry, you only notice it at some text maybe.(sharpness at max)
I can't do something wrong with this setting, do I?

Budda

NeonPizza

Untitled

Well, it's that time of the year. LG & Sony have a brand new lineup of OLED TV's arriving this spring.
Originally, I was dead set on getting Sony's brand new QD-OLED but unfortunately the input lag numbers are nearly double that of last years LG C1&G1....Sony once again over hyped this thing like it was going to be the second coming in terms of Color, Brightness & low latency gaming but apparently its underdelivering with the latter two.

The C1 was capable of [email protected](it could also do 10ms with Boost mode, but that setting messed with near black gamma), and [email protected] The Sony A95K has [email protected] which just isn't acceptable if you actually value button response. It's especially bad for 2D platformers. It's not horrible or completely game breaking or anything, but if you've grown accustomed to CRT or even last years LG C1 & G1 you will be disappointed.

But ya, my eye is on the LG G2 OLED now. The two main differences from this years C1 seem to be the HeatSink which will provide higher brightness for everything including game mode. C1's game mode by comparison was dimmer than it's ISF Bright setting, so this will resolve that), and obviously the Black frame insertion(motionPro) settings will be brighter too.

Then there's the Evo Panel, which will alow for 10-15% higher brightness, and the gallery stand which will give you a flush/flatter look when mounted on your wall. The C2 doesn't have the Heat Sink or Gallery stand but it has everything else that the G2 does including it's Evo Panel, Gen 9 processer(which i'm guessing means better upscaling and picture processing), and more color gamut/spaces to choose from like RGB instead of Auto or Native. I think gaming looks pretty excellent on the C1 @120fps. But i'd like just a little more brightness and a crisper/tack sharp picture like the C1's ISF Bright picture mode. It just sucks that LG has to kill some of that picture processing just to get lag lower.

Interested in making the upgrade from my Beyer Dynamic DT770 headphones too with these open Back DT1990's. That or the Sennheiser HD650's. I hear the 660 S's under deliver. The 800 S in general seems to fall in the end-game headphones category. Although, I've read that some people prefer the more intimate closer sound of the 600 series. Either way, it's at least $1499 CAD. The DT1990's go for half the price at $779 and they're supposed to be pretty amazing in their own right.

A great option for Quest 2, and the upcoming PSVR2(or Current PSVR1 if you actually still use it) & Cambria would be the Beyer Dynamic DT900 Pro X. They're Semi-open and sound pretty great. What makes it perfect for VR is that they're 48ohm, so they'll drive nicely and get very loud with your laptop, Phone, & VR headset. a 250ohm headphone by comparison will have low volume without a DAC, AMP or receiver.

DT1990 (Open Back) - $779 CAD
Untitled

DT900 Pro X (Semi-Open) - $379 CAD
Untitled

Edited on by NeonPizza

"ExcuuuUUUUSE ME, Princess!"
Switch Friend Code: SW-1323-8872-2420
I demand Crystal Pepsi & Noid Domino's Pizza!

NeonPizza

@Budda
Somebody in the AVS forum told me that if you Use PC mode(I can't remember if he said to just rename HDMI to PC in the settings or what. I'll have to recheck his post) in ISF Bright room so you wont get the two compromises from game mode, like the brightness loss and softer picture. But wouldn't you have limited access to the picture quality settings with PCM? He also said that you'll wind up with 20ms of lag vs 13ms in game mode.

Edited on by NeonPizza

"ExcuuuUUUUSE ME, Princess!"
Switch Friend Code: SW-1323-8872-2420
I demand Crystal Pepsi & Noid Domino's Pizza!

Budda

@WaveBoy
I noticed in PC mode, depending on the picture modes ABL has different behaviours. The game I was playing looked the best in Vivid because the brightness wasn't jarringly flactuating because of ABL.
I have to try ISF Bright Room again with other games. Thanks for the suggestion.

Budda

Joeynator3000

Welp, getting a new sound bar, since my current one has been acting up lately. This new one has eARC, but then again I'm hearing that the Switch STILL won't do surround sound even with that...but others are saying it's fine...? Ugh, I don't know...why is this a pain in the butt to do? Maybe the HDMI-IN will work better at least...

EDIT: out of pure boredom, tries to get surround sound on Switch working via HDMI-IN
...Yup, still doesn't work at all, or works with audio cutting out for a few seconds the exact moment the Switch's audio goes silent.

Edited on by Joeynator3000

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000

NeonPizza

@Joeynator3000
I plan on getting the Bose 700 which is an all in one SB that's similar to the Sonos Arc, but better. You can also get the additional Subwoofer Module which is going for another grand.

https://canada.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageHandler/trim/3000/1...

Its one of the more beautiful looking Sound bars out there too. If you want to go big, aka the best of the best and don't mind spending a pretty penny, there's obviously the Sennheiser Ambeo.

If you want the best of what's currently available for gaming, this would be it >

LG G1 or C1 OLED - (The soon to be released LG G2 will be the new champ )
Sennheiser Ambeo Sound Bar & Subwoofer
Sennheiser HD800 S open-back headphones
Soundblasterx G6 DAC (Looks super dated though, and i hate the tacky glowing ringed' volume knob)

with my living situation, there's no point in going all out on a Sound Bar because i wont be able to take full advantage of it, so I'm content with something like the Bose 700 with no Subwoofer. But when it comes to TV's & headphones, that's when I typically tend to go all out. Later this year i'll probably be upgrading to a 65" LG G2 OLED from my LG C1, and getting a pair of Beyer Dynamic DT1990's and tossing my closed back DT770's. Open-back is the way to fly obviously, unless you're paranoid about sound leak and can't afford to be disturbing your roommate, wife, whatever. HD650's are supposed to be excellent too when it comes to sennheiser.

Edited on by NeonPizza

"ExcuuuUUUUSE ME, Princess!"
Switch Friend Code: SW-1323-8872-2420
I demand Crystal Pepsi & Noid Domino's Pizza!

Joeynator3000

I'm limited with money, so I can't go for the $1,000+ sound systems...I just managed to get lucky with my TV due to certain events. (C9) but yeah Vizio is basically my best option since everything else out there is too expensive.

Edited on by Joeynator3000

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000

NeonPizza

@Joeynator3000
OLED isn't all rainbow's and sunshine, i mean it mostly is(haha) but it's not some perfect end all be all TV technology. That Vizio i'm guessing if it's a QLED has RGB color, can probably get brighter if you need it and doesn't get smacked with Auto brightness limiting. So there's that, plus the much more affordable price tag. OLED is too expensive when you factor is it's major shortcoming. MOTION. Don't get me wrong, it has a faster motion response time than any TV tech that's currently on the market, but you have to resort to things like Black frame insertion to get motion close to Plasma and that feature itself has a few draw backs. Yet even if you're gaining less motion blur & more motion resolution you're still left with 3x the amount of judder for low frame rate content than any plasma.

If you want to save some cash when it comes to headphones i'd recommend These >

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-Over-Audiophile-Headphon...

Edited on by NeonPizza

"ExcuuuUUUUSE ME, Princess!"
Switch Friend Code: SW-1323-8872-2420
I demand Crystal Pepsi & Noid Domino's Pizza!

Joeynator3000

...I'm talking about the audio with Vizio...lol

I love my OLED TV, it works perfectly fine, aside from having one semi-dead pixel. It's the sound bar that I've been having issues with, and getting my Switch to use surround sound. It either doesn't work at all, or when it does work (for some bizarre reason) the audio cuts out for a few seconds almost instantly when it detects no audio from the console, it's highly annoying and I can't figure out why. It also feels like the overall quality dropped slightly.

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000

Joeynator3000

Welp, got my new sound bar...
...
Yeah, I give up completely. I got surround sound on Switch to work ONCE via eARC and even then...it was stuck at a super loud volume, unable to control it, and I think the bass/subwoofer didn't even work. HDMI-IN? Nope, that just doesn't work at all, no audio...

People have said unplugging the sound bar would fix this but, nope, it just stopped working after that...I'm done.

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000

JaxonH

@Joeynator3000
When I got my Sennheiser Ambeo, at first I couldn't get it working with Switch and was frustrated.

Then, I updated the firmware of the soundbar via ethernet, then I unplugged it and disconnected all HDMI cables, pressed the power button 10 times to run out any juice left (an old college trick), reconnected it but connected Switch to HDMI Input 2 instead of Input 1, and it worked.

When you say "it worked through eARC" what does that mean? You mean you plugged HDMI from Switch directly into the eARC HDMI port on the soundbar? Cause that isn't how it should be set up. There should be at least one other HDMI in (which I know you said wasn't working), but you should absolutely get sound when running HDMI into the HDMI In on the soundbar. The video can then be passed through via eARC on soundbar out to TV.

If you're not, I'd troubleshoot why

  • Is the HDMI cable 2.0b or 2.1?
  • Is the Source Input on the soundbar changed to the same Input Switch is connected to? (e.g. set to Input 1 but Switch is connected to Input 2)
  • Is the firmware updated (almost all soundbars need a firmware update out of the box)
  • Is Switch set to Surround specifically, not Automatic?
  • If all these things have been ruled out, is there another HDMI Input you can try on the soundbar? (For some reason my Ambeo wouldn't work with Switch on a specific Input, but did on another, no idea why)

Just trying to help

PLAYING
NS: Splatoon 3, Xenoblade 3, MH Rise Sunbreak, Radiant Silvergun and dozens of other STGs
PC/SD:
XSX:
PS5:

Jesus is Lord.

Joeynator3000

I'm done...there's basically no way to get it working, the one time I did get it to "work", I couldn't turn down the maxed out volume, and now video passthrough has issues. I just don't care anymore, I'll just stick with stereo on Switch.

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000

Joeynator3000

@JaxonH Despite being frustrated, I calmed down a bit and remembered to try...ONE. LAST. THING.....my HDMI splitter. lol

It works...surround sound works, no audio cutting out or stuttering like the last one. Yeah, more cables, though...but whatever. It does seem like the volume drops slightly but at least it works.

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000

Joeynator3000

Yeah, aside from those issues, Switch surround sound works perfectly fine. I decided to test it out with Mario Kart 8 (people told me the shells were more scary with surround, I'm disappointed, lol), yeah everything works. Problem with the last bar was that the audio would cut out way too often with HDMI In (and sometimes during blurays which was irritating when watching movies). But yeah, no matter which Vizio bar it is, HDMI-IN passthrough doesn't fully work, there's always some issue.

No idea what causes it, the first time the audio wouldn't work at all, but video was fine. This second time (where I said I was giving up after) audio worked but the video kept cutting out (the resolution seems to be lower as well). There were also times where the surround sound randomly wouldn't work and rear speakers would just be played through the front, lol.

So yeah, more HDMI cables have to be used, but the splitter helps. I don't have to deal with the passthrough weirdness. Only thing is that I would have to remove the cable in HDMI IN to my capture if I want to record. (and switch the audio back to ARC)

ANYWAYS, yup...this sound bar has absolutely NO audio cutouts, no matter the settings. The only thing that bugs me that I don't think there's a way to disable...is that the sound bar's "voice" when changing inputs or messing with settings. It's annoying, I don't like it when things talk to me, how do you shut it up? >.< lol

My Monster Hunter Rise Gameplay
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzirEG5duST1bEJi0-9kUORu5SRfvuTLr

Discord server: https://discord.gg/fGUnxcK
Keep it PG-13-ish.

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/c/Joeynator3000

Please login or sign up to reply to this topic