Topic: What display device are you using?

Just wondering what display device you are using for gaming, it could be a TV, monitor or projector and could be LCD, plasma, CRT etc. Lastly why are you using it and what is its best and worst feature?

I guess my main tv currently is a Finlux passive 3D 4K tv. It's best feature is 3D of course and perhaps lots of connections for consoles of any era and worst feature is even from new its smart features were utterly rubbish. I think I got about 2 years out of them before they became incompatible.

It's now 11 years old.

https://www.displayspecifications.com/en/model/deb17bd

Mine doesn't have a satellite input but is basically the same as the chassis information above.

My "main tv" is a 50" Samsung 720p plasma that I bought in 2007.

I have had numerous relatively inexpensive (and some more expensive) LCD TVs in the time since, but they have all failed in a few short years, or the input lag or other crucial features were so off that I had to move on quickly.

The plasma is a beast!

PROS:

• has lasted 20 years of regular use with zero issues
• it's piano black, with a swivel base, and big beautiful bezels. it looks a lot more like attractive furniture than modern tvs. I'm a fan of a wide black bezel, much the way photographers and artists sometimes show their work in heavy black frames.
• the motion and color are very, very good.
• 720p is a cool "in between" resolution, that works well with my Steamdeck and my switch, essentially displaying "handheld mode" on the big screen, which works just fine.
• using component, later "legacy" consoles like PS2 and Wii also look great!
• we are a "VHS family," and believe it or not our VCR looks great over simple composite video
• no smart features at all.

CONS:

• It's big and heavy
• it makes an odd "crackling" noise sometimes (but not every time) when the screen shows a bright scene (like a big white text box, or a bright blue sky. or a fade to white,) but that seems to go away if the tv is properly "warmed up."
• obviously it can't do 4k or HDR but honestly I couldnt care less. make some good games that make non superficial great use of those features and I'll follow along maybe.
• nobody is impressed 😂✌️

this was fun! maybe I'll come back and talk about my portable 16:10 lcd, and my CRTs 🥳👍

Mine is 32 inch White bezel SHARP TV with component and HDMI input.

@-wc-
You failed to mentioned just how much better plasma motion clarity is vs OLED. OLED's achilies heel is most defintiely it's sample and hold motion blur, Shadow detail crushing and excess(Like as in triple the amount vs Plasma) film judder.

My 2013 60" Panasonic Plasma finally broke down a couple of years ago, but it was a beast. Movies were so much more enjoyable on that thing, because the motion was almost reminiscent of those amazing CRT's we grew up on in the 80's, 90's & early to mid 2000's. OLED's by comparison is blurry and artificial. You lose that level of appreciation when motion clarity detail gets completely smothered in a wave of mushy blur, which doesn't happen with good plasmas. But most people on here have forgotten, they've grown so used to LED's & OLED to the point where any kind of refsrence is mute, unless they have a CRT on the side lines for retro gaming.

QD-OLED's may have true blacks, much higher brightness, whiter whites, you've got 4K, HDR & 120fps for video games(NS2 & PS5), and thats all awesome, bot motion persistence is a real drag, unless you're gaming at 120fps, but that's a luxory frame rate. 120fps btw, like in the upcoming Metroid Ravenous is essnetially a 3 in one upgade. it removes 50% of your 4K TV's motion blur getting you 50% closer to CRT, it cuts down latency in half so games feel more instantaneous like a CRT and it adds 60 more fps for buttery smooth true to life-ish motion.

But still, gotta love plasma's for movies. That's defintiely my preference!

@-wc- I had a Samsung 720p plasma at one point which was from John Lewis but sadly it came with a dead pixel and went back. I then got a Panasonic plasma which I had for about 2 years and then it got the purple snakes and was refunded. I still have a Hitachi 42" Alis panel plasma tv mainly because I got it cheap and it is in storage which is basically an unused bedroom. The alis panel plasma's had high input lag 50-100ms for gaming but high brightness for the time.

Summary Comparison Measurement Metric Marketing Specification Real-World Performance Window

Peak Highlight 1000 – 1400 nits~

400 – 600 nits (Post-filter)

Full-Screen White Not widely advertised~150 – 250 nits

Ultimately, while the raw physics of the ALIS panel achieved those 1000+ nits numbers in a lab, when sitting in your living room watching actual television programming, your eyes were generally seeing a peak of around 400 to 500 nits on bright sports or movies—which was still exceptionally bright for a flat-panel television in the mid-2000s.

It's an interesting set which I plan to make more use of in the future for a retro corner but spoilt by the high input lag.

I have two other plasma televisions which are faulty which I'm just going to throw out in a few days. I keep holding on to stuff even if faulty which I must stop doing. One is a thomson 42" plasma set with only a 480p resolution.

I guess that is a few years old because where I am I'm not seeing component any more on new sets. You get hdmi and that is your lot. If its an extra fancy set you might get a display port connection.

@WaveBoy

Metroid Ravenous might look amazing in docked mode but I'm not convinced it will be that great in portable mode but I only have Metroid Prime 4 as a 120fps/120Hz Switch 2 game. I don't think I have any other games that make use of that mode but could be wrong. Anyway it didn't look that great it was clear the screen was struggling to create 120 frames with smearing, trailing effects etc. I have a pc handheld and android handheld with 120/144Hz modes and those look so much better than Switch 2. Also I think it was only 720p on Switch 2 so resolution was a bit rough too. I quickly went back to 60Hz mode as the graphics were nicer and it just felt a better game experience to me even though there was a bit more input lag. Even in the 120Hz mode there is about 60ms of input lag on Switch 2 in portable mode. I'm not sure what the 60Hz mode input lag is but would guess maybe around 100ms but not sure I just remember 60ms for the 120Hz mode as I thought it was a bit rubbish and stuck in mind and combined with smearing and trailing effects I wondered about the point of it. At best the Switch 2 panel can do 40fps clean frames as the minimum pixel response time is 25ms and the worst 40ms which is 25 clean frames a second. The average of 33ms is 30 clean frames per second. Just seems ridiculous to have a 120hz panel with such a slow pixel response time. You need a pixel response time of about 8ms to generate 120 clean frames per second. I think the input lag on Switch OLED for metroid prime 4 is about 100ms but it can create 60 clean frames per second with no issues.

I just googled online and it says the original wii u gamepad screen has a average input lag of 16ms. I thought wow that is low but I guess its only a 480p screen and I believe the original wii GPU of the chipset controls the gamepad screen where as the more powerful main GPU is linked to the hdmi output. Still 16ms is quite impressive.

My main tv is a 60’’ Samsung 4K TV, that was given to me by my parents when the upgraded to a bigger screen. My Switch 2, Xbox Series X and PS5 go through there. It has a very good pucture and little to no lag (that I can tell).

I have next to it a 26’’ JVC flatscreen, widescreen CRT TV, which I use for systems up to the Wii. Two of its 3 SCART sockets are RGB, so with the right cables systems like my old Mega Drive look superb. However, I mainly use of for DVDs, as they look poor on the 4K tv.

42 inch LED 1080p. It doesn't have 4K obviously, but it can do 120hz. It was pretty cheap when I got it and it is still good well over 10 years later.

No idea what the input lag is but it's always felt fine to me even for fast action games and rhythm games.

I literally just have my Switch 2 dock connected to my parents' Samsung smart TV in the living room. A probably newer model purchased back in 2025 after my little bro made a crack in the (imho better) previous one's screen (still ticked off about our newest one having a screen full of ads when you turn it on 🤬). Since it is newer, it might have 4K, but I'm honestly not entirely sure and honestly don't really care because the games on my Switch 2 look amazing, 4K or not 😜

Edit: just remembered, back when I first got my Switch 2, every single time I booted it up it would bug me about setting up HDR, because apparently our TV supports that. After about three times, I set up HDR just so it would shut up about that 😂. Does our TV apparently having HDR compatibility make it more likely to support 4K? I'm curious now.

I have a 55" Vizio TV that I bought back in 2018. It is capable of 4K, and my Switch 2 games look great on it. It can do HDR as well, but I've never got it to look right on Switch 2. (I did get pretty close, but the colors were still off.) So I just leave HDR off and my games still look really good. I haven't noticed any input latency either, and I have game mode enabled. Everything else I've had hooked up to it, like my Wii U, Switch 1, and blu-ray player, all have good picture quality as well, of course.

There's only three HDMI ports though, and one component/composite port... which is why I have an HDMI switcher. I like to have a soundbar hooked up to the HDMI-1 port for better sound, too. It has Smartcast as well (it's a smart TV), but it's just not very good... it's incredibly slow a lot of the time, which was kind of the reason why I ended up getting a Roku later down the road for streaming services. It is miles better in comparison. I also made my TV so that it won't collect any of my data while I'm using it.

@Gamecuber Nice to hear of someone still using a CRT set. I'm surprised about using it for DVDs though as I thought some devices like PS3 and PS5 can do a very good job of upscaling DVDs and if you have a PC you can use something like potplayer and madvr to enable realtime AI DVD upscaled playback with great results on a modern TV.

That sounds like an interesting set if its 10 years old with 120Hz. I'm guessing maybe not VRR compatible just standard 120Hz. Now that I think about I think my third party Switch 2 dock does support 120Hz but only at 1080p and 1440p but no VRR support. As the Switch 2 is not a very powerful system I can see VRR being a game changer for games that are quite ambitious and struggle with the frame rate at times. My older Finlux tv which is still my main tv currently I think supports higher refresh rates for sub 4K resolutions but not 120Hz. I think I might get 75Hz at 1080p as a pc resolution. My newer tv supports I think 288Hz at 1080p.

@Nep-Nep-Freak Here in the UK about the only remaining shop where you can see televisions working is Currys and you often see forced advertising on Fire OS, Tizen OS and other smart televisions. I don't want that at all but it helps subsidise the price of the set and pay for running the smart features but life is too short to waste time watching such adverts. I don't have a tv licence here in the UK so can't watch live tv legally and can't use iplayer the BBC streaming service so my current television has no aerial connected and its smart features are rubbish so no wifi connection to the tv either. I use streaming services like itv x through the web browser on a pc connected to the TV and the browser blocks adverts using a adblocking chrome extension. Just 18 months of the TV licence cost has paid for my new television pretty much. My mortgage is almost paid off now which is fantastic and I put that down partly by not paying for stuff I don't need like the TV Licence. If you use a TV for lets say 7 years that is 7 years of advertising revenue and selling your data too its probably a considerable sum of money. A quick google shows about $30-45 per year so over 7 years could be over $300.

@BonzoBanana We have a 40’’ Sony Bravia LCD tv from 2012 in the living room. It’s 1080p and with a modern upscaling DVD player through HDMI DVDs look very good. However, that is the everyday family tv, so the 4K and CRT are in my ‘man cave’ as my wife calls it. If I want to watch a movie it has to be in there.

The other reason I use the CRT for DVDs is purely for nostalgia; the CRT is quite similar to the set I had 20+ years ago.

@BonzoBanana
I can't speak for Metroid Prime 4, or any NS2 game for that matter. I still don't have one, but I can imagine 120fps for MP4 in handheld struggling with an inconsistent 120 due to being less powerful in HH, topped with more motion blur thanks to NS2's handheld LCD/LED display having a higher motion persistence, ala'' smearing.

NS1's OLED display in HH looks gorgeous. The motion persistence looks as if it's faster than any OLED 4K 'TV', the colors are vibrant and saturated and there's no green tint whatsoever that plagues nearly every LG WOLED TV in existence, _and it doesn't suffer from LG OLED's notorious shadow detail crushing. NS1's OLED display has been dialed in to near perfection by the NintenHead Wizards no doubt! But it's still boarderline useless to me, because it's still just a 7" display. I need at least 55" to get the job done. I only game in HH with NS1 OLED if I'm deciding on a whim to play NSO GameBoy or GBA, or any standalone/compilation based emulation release specificaly tailored to handheld based titles. Which btw rarely, if ever, look good being blown up on a big 4:3 screen on a 55".

@Gamecuber I can relate to nostalgia plus I like to see stuff used for a very long time. I hate the throwaway society and to get maximum use out of something is very satisfying. My old digital camera was worn down with most of the buttons un-labeled through wear and tear. It was quite satisfying to see something used so much that the external body hardly had any paint left on it around where the fingers would hold it and press buttons.

@WaveBoy Have you tried moving the Switch closer to you as at around 11-15 inches approx the size of the screen is comparable to a 55 inch screen at normal viewing distances. Personally I need reading glasses at that distance. I've lost my ability to focus on closer objects with age. Just using my hand as a test I reckon I get perfect focus at about 18 inches or more. However probably around 25 inches would be comfortable for long sessions without reading glasses.

Asus PG32UCDM:
Great HDR Support, 4k gaming monitor. With the Switch I focus on getting the best HDR output possible.

Hisense 55 inch 4k TV in the lounge for the switch 2 plus a Alba CRT with a Mister.

Ive got a couple of other CRTs stashed in cupboards as spares. 👍